Google Earth placemark of my trip

This link should take you to a satellite view of my walk.

Video of the Camino

This video was made by one of traveling companions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnB29WgdopE

Finis... Tuesday, May 27, 2008 5:44 AM

Terra!

I´m


done


walking!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Part one is finis Thursday, May 22, 2008 5:57 AM

Hola,

Sorry I haven´t posted for a couple of days. I was
actually pretty sick.

I am in Campostella and have my certificate. I will
stay here at least untill tomorrow before starting fot
Fisterra (Finis Terrae).

I was truly beat when I got here yesterday. The night
before the woman who had decided to cook me dinner did
so. I think I arouse maternal instincts. Nothing
more seems to happen.

Some of the younger folk on this treck seem to have
hooked up.

I should mention that the Irish girl was flirting with
me to anger her girlfriend. I was still flattered.

I´m much better today and I have at least a thousand
photos.

Adios

Richard J. McGurk

A splendid day along the Way Monday, May 19, 2008 11:05 AM

I am in Ribadiso at a delightful Alberge except it has
no TP or cookware and dishes in the Cucina. This
wouldn´t matter except a young lady carried a bunch of
groceries and I brought the wine to make dinner. The
lack of TP is just an added aggravation.

Otherwiase it was a very pleasant day. I am about 40
KM from Campostella. The end of the earth is another
100 KM.

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another day along the Way Sunday, May 18, 2008 11:41 AM

Hola,

Today it rained again. This time I walked part of the
way alone. I made better time and was more relaxed.
Yesterday I was exhausted at the end. Today I stopped
because of the clock, not my condition.

I was walking the last two days with a Dane named
Knud. A gret guy. I just don´t walk well at another
person´s pace. I marvel at these married couples.
They have adapted, I guess.

I am in Palas de Rei. It was a pleasant walk along
country lanes and a few dedicated footpaths. I am
about three days from Campostella. A week from the
End of the Earth (Finis Terrae).

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another (WET) day along the Way Saturday, May 17, 2008 1:25 PM

Today was tough. Thank goodness I have a good
attitude. Today I know I walked at least 40 KM. The
charts say 24.

The walk was beautiful but the rain was annoying.
Then I got to the albergue at Ferrerios ant it was
full. I got very tired and wet. I reserved a room in
Portmarin. Nuff of this stuff. The room is
wonderful! I will not be sleeping in a barn and
showering in other peoples leavings. Bed linnens and
towels. That is cheating, I think. But I had to do
myself this favor after a day like this one.

I am at about 90 KM to Santiago. You can get a
Campostella if you do only about 110 KM. There are
lots of folks doing the least possible. I´ve almost
run out of places to stamp my credential!

As I write this the sun shown for a moment. Tomorrow
may be better.

Adios!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another day along the Way Friday, May 16, 2008 1:19 PM

Today I am in Samos. I´ve lost track of Ellen from
Cork. Probably best. The way in to Samos was
downhill. Drat! I dislike downhill. I am stayiing
at a Benedictine monestary. I walked about 31.4 Km.
I have about 130 KM to go. I will be there in 5 or 6
days.

Then what?

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

The Camino so far Thursday, May 15, 2008 2:11 PM

Hola!

I walked about 38 Km today and the last 7 Km was up a
10% grade! That´s 700 meters in 7 Km! I feel it. I
am at the minicipal albergue at Ocebreira.

I kinda hoped to meet up with the colleen here but I
haven´t seen her.

The reason I´m recommending my friends not do this is
it really isn´t an activity. It´s a little more than
that.

The Germans are here in numbers because of a book
written by a gay commedian. They are tourists and
very annoying.

I understand the book will be translated to English
next year and a sitcom about the Camino is in the
works. Alas!

Adios!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Anothr day along the Way Wednesday, May 14, 2008 11:40 AM

Yesterday I was in Molinaseca but the internet was
not. Today I am in Cacabelos. I stopped at 24 K as I
Thought it lookd like rain. Yesterday I put in a hard
walk with 400 metres climb and 1000 metres descent.
In the rain. My knees hated me. I met Ellen from
Cork again last night. I think she is a little too
set on her ways. She is an accountant and stays in
hotels rather than albergues.

In short, no progress on that front.

Tomorrow may prove a very difficult day. I hope
there´s no rain. I think I´m under 200 Kms to
Santiago. Less than 300 K to the end of the earth.

Adios

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another day along the Way Monday, May 12, 2008 12:08 PM

Here I am in Rabanal. A delightful town. Totally
devoted to the Camino.

I´m staying at the English Albergue. Well worth
looking for. The predicted rain once again didn´t
develope. I had a wonderfull walk with no pains
whatsoever! Tomorrow I go over the highest spot on
the Camino. I´m to leave a stone (I interpret burden)
at the peak. I have chosen mine.

I recommend none of you ever EVER do this.

Ultreia

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another day along the Way Sunday, May 11, 2008 1:21 PM

Today I am in Astorga. I walked 30 KM and my feet and
back feel fine. The weather was perfect and the route
was delightful. Tomorrow it is supposed to rain.

I met an Irish girl named Ellen from Cork. My first
Irish person. I arrived in Astorga and soon after
taking care of administrative details I met an Irish
fellow who insisted on buying me a Guinness. Can´t
refuse that. While sitting there enjoying the stout
who should walk in but Ellen! The Camino makes
instant friends.

I am staying in a religious oriented albergue. Nice
and relaxed. It is cold and I´ve washed my fleece and
it is not yet dry so I will not go out tonight.

But I run on! Tomorrow I will walk to Rabanal. I
hope to have time to see some of Astorga before I
leave here.

Adios

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Today aToday along the Way Saturday, May 10, 2008 7:54 AM

I am in Villadangos. It rained most of the way here.
It is cold. My feet are fine and my back is okay.
Nothing much to say about this town or the route here.
Tomorrow I will be in Astorgas which promises to be
much nicer. Rain is expected tomorrow as well. It
should be warmer.

My extra day in Leon proved well worth it. I stayed
in a nice pension with the bath down the hall.

I had planned to take a cross country route that
avoids the highway but missed a turn in the rain so I
took the regular route. I didn´t want to get my map
out in the rain so I followed the route markers. I
probably skipped a good bit of mud this way.

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Camino so far Thursday, May 8, 2008 11:58 AM

I´m in Leon. My feet feel fine. The Cathedral here is
astonishing. I will stay here an additional day. I
have reservations in a nice pension. Not sure I need
give my feet an additional day but I have spare days
to use for this, so I will. Besides the city is
delightful.

We had a few drops of rain after I hung my laundry out
to dry. It will take a few more minutes. It is sunny
again,anyway.

I´m staying at a Benedictine monestary. Really nice
facility. Way different from the hippy place I stayed
last night in Mansilla.

No real apetite but I will have ensalada mixta (tossed
salad) at least.

Adios!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Mansilla de los Mullas Wednesday, May 7, 2008 10:33 AM

(Something about mule saddles) There was no internet
in Calzadilla last night. I am feeling much better as
I have put 24.5 k on my feet in my walking shoes!
First day off sandals in three!

The weather continues to delight! The walk today was
not vert scenic. In the far distance I could see the
Picos de Europa in blue haze. In the interim was the
Campos. Lots of that. My feet are much better today
and I think I will take it easy getting into Leon
tomorrow and spend another day there to rest my toes.
I´m good for about 28 K. After that I suffer. Maybe
I can build up to more. Maybe not. 28 is good.

The people you meet at the alberguea keeps changing.
I am much slower than the Germans and French so I lose
them in a day or two. The English speakers seem able
to keep up with me for a few days before falling off.
The Brits that I started with left me far behind.
Most of the Americans I started with have accepted
busses as an alternative route or have given up.

I´m just plodding along

Yours,

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

A short day on the Camino Monday, May 5, 2008 10:26 AM

Today I walked only a short distance (13.1 Km) to
Sahagun. I went to the hospital and got little help.
The doctor that finally looked at my toe said it
wasn´t infected so he sent me to the next room for
someone else to look at it. I gave up and left. It
seems that pilgrims are not charged so they go to the
back of the line. I dressed the toe again myself and,
if it isn´t better tomorrow, I will take a bus into
Leon. I have another short day planned for tomorrow
if my foot is up to it.

Today was a beautiful one for walking. The path was
very pleasant and not too crowded. I hope the crowd
of the last couple days was a weekend phenomenon. I´m
staying in an adobe church tonight.

The plains I´m crossing are called the Campos. The
Meseta has been left behind.

No infection is good! I could pass up the pain.

Ultreia!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

More Camino stuff Sunday, May 4, 2008 10:51 AM

Yesterday I was in Carrion de los Condes. A fairly
large town. With no public Internet access. I stayed
at a true monestary.

On the way to Carrion I passed thrue Revenga. That is
surely where my little toe got infected! At Carrion I
looked overhead for buzzards and saw none.

My foot hurt a lot today so I wore sandals. I still
covered 20.1 Km yesterday and 26.8 today. (12.5 m and
16.6 miles)

I am staying in a wonderfull new albergue tonight. I
think I will break tomorrow into two days if my foot
is sore.

I walked 12 km along a roman road but honestly it
looks much like any farm track.

I may be half way to Campostella. Kinda depends on
how many side trips I take.

The path is very crowded. I think by 2010, the next
Holy Year, it will be intense. If you wish to do
this, bring a tent! Albergues will fill up early!

Ulreia!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another day along the Way Friday, May 2, 2008 1:53 PM

Hola from Fromista!

Today I walked 32.5 Km (20.2 miles). This seems like
a litany of distances covered. Sorry about that. I
walked across the Meseta. There were some wonderfull
views that didn´t lend themselves to photography. I
passed over a Roman causeway and bridge. I climbe
about 100 meters in half a kilometer. (300 feet in
half a mile) The climb up was breathtaking and
enjoyable.

Conditions were perfect but I punished my feet. If
any fool feels compelled to do this I am available for
advice. I´ve learned a lot this trip. Unless you are
¨Happy in your own head¨ don´t do it.

Ultreia

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Along the Way

Dateline Burgos,

I missed posting yesterday from Atapuerca as the only
internet connection in town was down!

Today was perfect for walking. I got an early start
and covered the 21 K to Burgos by noon. The last 8 K
is dreadfull as you go through the dirty industrial
part of the city. Lots of truck traffic and
construction going on so their economy must be
healthy.

I plan on spending another rest day in Burgos at a
three star hotel. I´ve spent very little so far and
deserve a splurge. I plan to stay over in Leon as
well.

The Cathedral opened a few minutes ago and the rain
has stopped so I´m off to do touristy things.

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Along the Way Saturday, April 26, 2008 11:48 AM

Hola from Belorado,

Yesterday I slagged off and stayed in Santo Domingo.
My right foot needed a rest.

Today I walked 24 Km or about 15 miles and my foot was
much less sore. The last 8 Km was along a highway and
lacked any kind of shade. The day was beautiful and
subblock was necessary.

There was a nice church in Redicilla. There sure are
a lot of 800 year old churches here that are still in
use. Many need work but are nonetheless spectacular.

I stopped at a bar for coffee and a snack and the
ptoprietor opened the church. There are churches at
every little hamlet.

There is a lot of new construction going on along the
Way. I have heard that it is just along the Camino.

I must go as I have my journal to complete.

Hasta la vista

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

By the Way Thursday, April 24, 2008 3:27 PM

¡Hola!

From Santo Domingo de Calzado (Saint Dominic of the
Road). I walked to Canyaswith an additional
unintended detour of about 3 KM for a total of about
25 Km or 15.6 miles.

There was a Cistercian abbey at Canyas. It was worth
it even though the way was all pavement and added
hills. Pavement is hard work. I found blisters when
I got in. I also found the Albergue full. I had to
get a room at a hotel. I will miss the comradery of
the ¨Little Company of Pilgrims¨that has developed.
This is supposed to be the off season! There are a
bunch of Peregrinos on the Way.

This was my first encounter with Taxicab Pilgrims. I
saw a bunch of Germans get out of a tour bus about two
muiles from Santo Domingo and start walking. Another
perigrino told me of a few folk who got out of a taxi
right in front of the Albergue! Shame!

Kinda diminishes the value of a Camino as bragging
rights! Good thing that´s not why I´m doing it.

Charlie, they do have Camembert here. There is
supposed to be a Spanish equivalent but I´ve not
located it yet.

The local wine is Rioja and it is highly regarded. I
thought it tasty enough. I stopped for a bocadillo at
a bodega yesterday and the proprietor gave me a glass
of Rioja. At the third glass I had to say Stop. He
only charged me for the sandwich. It seems peregrinos
are important folk here!

Ultreya!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Another day on the Way

All,

I am tonight in Najera. I walked 29 KM or 18 miles
today. I have accumulated 170 Km or about 105 miles
in a week. I am surprised at myself.

I mostly walk by myself. I like the quiet. The views
are memorable.

There are several publications that recommend an
agenda. Most of my compatriots are using one by John
Brierley. It breaks the route down into 33 stages. I
skipped the first so I could do this in 32 days. I
intend to take a few breaks along the way to heal my
feet and rest. So far I´m not ready to do so.

The group that I fell into has shrunk. One woman got
infected blisters on her feet. two Englishmen stayed
over at Logrono for a day. One American stayed with
them because of his feet.

I discovered a product called Compeed and threw my
moleskin away.

Ultreya!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Re: camino

Great!!

I made it to Najera, much to my surprise.
I hope to make it to Festivale
> Fantastique happening in Leon on May 5. 7 pm at the
> albergue.


Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

So far on the Way

All,

I write this in Logronos, 27.8 Km 817.3) from Los
Arcos. This was another dry day. I was the only one
to start out in shorts and I was envied soon enough.
The sun didn¢¥t come out untill about 1100 but it was
warm enough. The sun brought a still wind.

Tomorrow I may take a short day as the stage is a mile
longer than today with more and steeper hills. There
are two towns with lodging in the middle. I will
decide as I go.

My feet are bothering me a bit. My legs and endurance
are fine. I had to walk the last 8 km in sandles
because my feet were getting hot and sore. When
things get tough the tendency is to put your head down
and shove your feet forward. I¢¥m not going to do
that.

Ultreya!



Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

So far on the Camino

Hola!

Today I made it to Los Arcos (The Arches). 21.7 Km or
13.5 miles.

This was the easiest day so far. There was little
mud, the rain threatened but failed to produce, and
there was only one mountain to mention.

The uphill side of mountains is fine. My knees and
sciatica disdain downhill slopes.

There was a long ten km (6.2 mile) stretch with no
breaks. That was at the end. By the end of that I
had had quite enough, thank you very much. This is
Monday (Lunes) and the shops should be open. Not so!

I need to get a few things to see me through tomorrow
as I have used up my emergency rations and certain
medical supplies.

There was free wine at the Bodegas Irache.
Unfortunately it was 10:00 AM when I passed by and I
saw no use for wine no matter how cheap. I tasted it
and walked on.

The free wine is green. Tasty but too tart. Free
though!

Tomorrow promises to bee a long day. The schedule
calls for 28 Km (17.3 Miles) There is an intermediate
poind where I may call it a day.

More later.





Richard J. McGurk

The Camino so far

All,

I am in Estella today I walked 21 Km which is about
13 miles. All I have talked to said it was a real
slog.
My feet hurt a bit. I had one small blister the
second day. My shoes may not last this whole trip.
They were almost new but the constant mud and rain
might use them up.
Today and yesterday threatened rain but failed to
deliver, thank goodness. I think I have walked about
90 Km (55 miles)in the last four days.
The terrain is pretty difficult. And muddy. When we
get out on the flats, it is supposed to be easier. My
back has been mostly behaving and my legs are getting
used to this. In another couple of days I should have
no complaints.
We Mericans and a couple Brits are off to dinner.
More later.

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

The camino so far

I tried to send a message last night but the terminal
quit.

Last night I was in Cesur Minor after walking about 27
Km. Tonight I am in Puenta La Riena. I may take it
easier tomorrow. I am a day ahead of schedule as I
started at Roncesvalles rather than St. Jean Pied de
Port. I´ve learned a few things I would not do had I
know bwtter. Mostly I packed right. There are a lot
of Americans here. Tsup wid dat? We are supposed to
be too broke for travel. The Euro is ¨Too spensive¨.
Praps not!

Gotta get off this machine

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Camino so far

All,

I am on a shared terminal so this will be brief. I
started the treck yesterday. I am staying at an
albergue (pilgrim´s hostal) in Zubiri which is a few
miles short of Pamplona. I left from Roncesvalles as
the pass over the Pyranees is considered too difficult
as it is muddy, foggy, and rises 1400 meters in 16
kilometers. I walked 22.5 kilometers today. Up and
down a bit. This is the foothills of the Pyranees.
In about four or five days the route flattens out.

I am in good shape and have met some delightful
people.

Courtesy dictates I relinquish this machine.

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi

Camino de Santiago

I am in Pamplona, Spain. I will be here a day, then
in St Jean Pied de Port, France for a day after which
I start a bit of a treck. I will return to Columbus
on June 3d, Lord willing and the creek don´t rise.

The trip so far has been uneventful. I was hoping to
buy my way into the Madrid first class lounge. I´ve
done so in Munich and Atlanta. No soap here.
Terminal 2 at Barajas airport is boring for 6 hours!

I will be taking pictures (everybody does) but doubt
I´ll be able to send them ´til I get home.

Ultreya!

Richard J. McGurk
Semper ubi sub ubi